Rework a piece of outdated jewellery into a custom creation you’ll have for life. 
(© Bonnie Schiedel. Originally published in Wish, November 2006). 

Chances are, you own a perfectly good piece of fine jewellery that you just don’t wear. But with a little help from a custom jeweller, you can transform your tired bling into something unique and gorgeous that you wear all the time. Here’s how.

Shop around 
Look for a jeweller who specializes in custom work, rather than a chain store that only does the occasional piece. And make sure your styles are in sync. 

Work together 
Most jewellers offer a free consultation. Bring a sketch, photo or magazine picture of pieces you like to your appointment. Ask to see photos of the jeweller’s work. “Even better, ask to try on actual in-store samples,” advises Mark Lash, a custom jeweller based in Toronto. And discuss expectations – it is important to note that a hand-made piece may not have the symmetrical perfection of a mass produced piece. Some jewellers will even do a complimentary wax carving of the proposed piece, so you know exactly what the finished product will look like. 

Reuse & recycle 
After you’ve decided on the design, you need to talk about materials. The jeweller will examine your stones to see if they’re in good condition. A large stone with a bit of damage can be recut, at a cost of about $250 per carat. You can also purchase extra stones to add to the piece. Many jewellers prefer not to reuse the original metal, because the alloy content is unknown, or the soldering used to attach the stones has to be cut away. “It’s best to start fresh,” says Hans Stamer, a custom jeweller in Vancouver. You may be able to trade in the old metal and get a credit from the jeweller. If you’re determined to reuse the old metal, a skilled goldsmith may be able to rework it, although the labour involved means it will likely cost more than buying new metal.

How much? 
Prices vary according to the size and complexity of the piece, but a ring made with new metal and your own stones runs from $500 to $750 for labour and materials. Small pieces like earrings and tie pins will cost less; larger pieces like necklaces and bracelets will cost more. Get a written estimate before work begins, and agree on a maximum price. It should take your jeweller about three to four weeks to complete the piece. 

Then go show it off! After all, life’s too short to let jewellery sit in a drawer.